Contrasts

Something that keeps striking me quite profoundly in my day-to-day life in Nepal are the huge contrasts which exist in society. As part of my morning regime, I walk up to a Hindu temple which is among the trees at the top of a rather steep hill near the house. The first contrast I noticed was that between the different types of houses. At the posh end of the scale are houses like that in which I live: 3 or 4 storeys constructed from solid brick, very smart windows, solar powered electricity to bypass the 13 hours of no power each day, and often surrounded by slightly intimidating gates and walls. As it is with the KC family with whom I live, I’m sure they have some form of home-help/servant, enjoy good food, have an impressive TV by Blackshaw standards, are highly educated and probably have a father who works in either India or the West. Within a stone’s throw of these impressive mansions, are tiny shacks with mud floors, no form of electricity and with occupants who are entirely illiterate. Not much else really to say about it other than comment of its existence as so far, with my lack of Nepali and also due to the fact that I am still definitely an ill-informed newcomer, I can’t comment on how locals feel about it. Saying that, looking back to the UK, such massive contrasts also definitely exist there too.

Contrast number two is that between simple, agricultural based rural living and the heights of modernity. From my standpoint beside the temple in the mornings I look down across the beautiful valley below. My view is predominantly of terraced fields where the women usually work. Through these fields, the river glistens in the early morning sunshine, and I can see the women washing and bathing it the somewhat murky water. However, this rather idyllic view is interrupted by 5 massive chimneys which seem constantly to pump out black smoke, certainly contributing to the general smog which on many days, stops us seeing the mountains marking the boundary of the Kathmandu valley. These chimneys belong to factories, some of which produce pashminas for export (yes, don’t worry girls, you will all have beautiful pashminas …), others make bricks for the many houses which are currently under construction.

This second contrast struck me further yesterday when I went into Kathmandu with Krishna. As I sat on the back of his motorbike sitting in a ridiculous traffic jam (the type involving massive lurching trucks, little put-put scooters, a few jeeps, some brave cyclists and also several cows … yup only in Asia!), I took a look at the incredible country in which I’m currently living. There is certainly a lot of pollution (many locals wear face masks constantly) and definitely a problem with sewage which STINKS, and many faces who’s eyes tell a story of a difficult life. And yet suddenly, we turned a corner into the area called “New Road”, and we stepped right into the 21st Century as we know it in the UK … well, nearly …. The street was lined with shops brimming with the latest technological gadgets. I phones, the swishest laptops, top-end digital cameras, massive plasma Tvs, washing machines … you name it, you can get it in Kathmandu. And what’s more, all the shops seemed to be incredibly busy. I don’t know why it surprised me so much really. Maybe that I hadn’t really thought about that side of Nepal, instead thinking only of the less developed side, for which I have come out here in order to try and make a very small contribution to one small, individual project.

As you can see, I’m quickly discovering the reality of Nepal. Every insight adds to my enjoyment of my experience. Even sitting choking on traffic fumes yesterday, I was smiling inside, marvelling at the Nepali way of life, as everyone was endlessly tooting at each other, trying their hardest to squeeze through the smallest gap, in order to be ahead of one more motorbike in the seemingly endless jam.

Aside from these slightly more philosophic insights, I am beginning to get a better idea of how I will be able to contribute to SHEWD during my stay. I won’t bore you with the details right now because I’ll probably do a more specific post about is sometime next week. This weekend, I’m meeting Sarah in Kathmandu to organise our 3 weeks of travelling which will start in mid April, and then we’re going to Nagarkot, from where the sunrises over the Himalaya are meant to be fabulous. (Although with the current smog, I’m not sure how far we’ll see. Oh well, that’s life … Just been listening to Frank Sinatra, can you tell? …)