Sunday, 28 March 2010
A few photos
I thought I'd treat you to a few photos. They're pretty difficult to upload with such slow internet so these are only a taster. A wee landscape shot, one of me and Sarah at a temple, and one of me with some of the KC family members on Muna's birthday :)
Saturday, 27 March 2010
Smile :)
Walking along this morning, I was puzzling over various cultural habits inherent in
But no. For the large part, I wander through the village each morning on my way to the temple and I’m completely left to my own thoughts. I’m not really complaining because I do like a good pondering-session in the morning, its just not what I was expecting.
Stemming from this, I’ve concluded that the smile is not a forte of
Relating to linguistic habits, I am still getting used to the lack of courteousy in Nepali. Muna told me off last night for always trying to translate “please” and “thank-you” in my limited efforts at Nepali. Instead she told me that you just say “Give me” etc, and that it is only foreigners who use “Namaste” (what we are told is the equivalent to “hello”) on a regular basis. Apparently they never say “good morning” to each other, nor do they offer any formal acknowledgement of one’s presence or their thanks in relation to someone else’s kindness. It all seems rather bizarre to me and I find that it further inhibits my attempts at communication and interaction with the locals because I don’t want to use unusual courteousy but yet, I don’t know what else to say to someone!
I’m finding all of these cultural insights very interesting and rather amusing at points, as I allow myself a little chuckle at the subtle differences between national cultures. Please don’t get me wrong concerning my insights. I am not saying that the Nepali people are unwelcoming or unfriendly, but simply that they don’t express their feelings towards me as a foreigner in the way I might have expected! Indeed, the family and
Wednesday, 24 March 2010
SHEWD work
My daily work routine is pretty much governed by the load-shedding timetable which dictates what time we will have electricity … Thankfully I have a laptop (very kindly donated to me by my good friend Natasha) so I can work for a few extra hours when there is no electricity.
I have two big projects at the moment for SHEWD. The first is trying to establish it as a Charitable Trust in
Secondly, being a Scottish charity will allow for easier fundraising in the West. It will mean that I (and any other interested and willing people … hint hint) will find it much easier to raise money, especially in the modern day when sites such as justgiving.com are so important to raising money. It will also allow a certain amount of tax relief, including the possibility of GiftAid on any kind donations made.
With my total lack of experience in such projects, I have been a faithful reader of the very useful information provided on both the Scottish Charities Regulator and Scottish Council for Voluntary Organisation websites. I have been working my way through they guidance on writing a Trust Deed, and I am now waiting on a translation of our objects and main activities from Nepali into English so I can start writing our own deed. Good training for my future legal career!
My another current project is creating a brochure for future volunteers. Krishna is very keen to get a regular flow of volunteers to help with our work and I feel that a lack of concrete information on the website and from communication with
Once I’ve completed the brochure, I am going to start approaching universities and volunteering organisations with the hope that they might be able to help in attracting regular volunteers. If any of you lovely readers have any ideas about suitable organisations please email me (eblackshaw_320@hotmail.com)
Apart from all this work, I am still enjoying
Its also getting increasingly hot out here – about 30 C. Krishna says that by the time we go to Pokhra (from where we will start our trek) it will be about 40C! Ahh – I think I might melt. Oh well, maybe I’ll sweat off the HUGE quanities of rice they insist on feeding me!
Until next time … Take care XXxx
Wednesday, 17 March 2010
Contrasts
Something that keeps striking me quite profoundly in my day-to-day life in Nepal are the huge contrasts which exist in society. As part of my morning regime, I walk up to a Hindu temple which is among the trees at the top of a rather steep hill near the house. The first contrast I noticed was that between the different types of houses. At the posh end of the scale are houses like that in which I live: 3 or 4 storeys constructed from solid brick, very smart windows, solar powered electricity to bypass the 13 hours of no power each day, and often surrounded by slightly intimidating gates and walls. As it is with the KC family with whom I live, I’m sure they have some form of home-help/servant, enjoy good food, have an impressive TV by Blackshaw standards, are highly educated and probably have a father who works in either India or the West. Within a stone’s throw of these impressive mansions, are tiny shacks with mud floors, no form of electricity and with occupants who are entirely illiterate. Not much else really to say about it other than comment of its existence as so far, with my lack of Nepali and also due to the fact that I am still definitely an ill-informed newcomer, I can’t comment on how locals feel about it. Saying that, looking back to the UK, such massive contrasts also definitely exist there too.
Contrast number two is that between simple, agricultural based rural living and the heights of modernity. From my standpoint beside the temple in the mornings I look down across the beautiful valley below. My view is predominantly of terraced fields where the women usually work. Through these fields, the river glistens in the early morning sunshine, and I can see the women washing and bathing it the somewhat murky water. However, this rather idyllic view is interrupted by 5 massive chimneys which seem constantly to pump out black smoke, certainly contributing to the general smog which on many days, stops us seeing the mountains marking the boundary of the Kathmandu valley. These chimneys belong to factories, some of which produce pashminas for export (yes, don’t worry girls, you will all have beautiful pashminas …), others make bricks for the many houses which are currently under construction.
This second contrast struck me further yesterday when I went into Kathmandu with Krishna. As I sat on the back of his motorbike sitting in a ridiculous traffic jam (the type involving massive lurching trucks, little put-put scooters, a few jeeps, some brave cyclists and also several cows … yup only in Asia!), I took a look at the incredible country in which I’m currently living. There is certainly a lot of pollution (many locals wear face masks constantly) and definitely a problem with sewage which STINKS, and many faces who’s eyes tell a story of a difficult life. And yet suddenly, we turned a corner into the area called “New Road”, and we stepped right into the 21st Century as we know it in the UK … well, nearly …. The street was lined with shops brimming with the latest technological gadgets. I phones, the swishest laptops, top-end digital cameras, massive plasma Tvs, washing machines … you name it, you can get it in Kathmandu. And what’s more, all the shops seemed to be incredibly busy. I don’t know why it surprised me so much really. Maybe that I hadn’t really thought about that side of Nepal, instead thinking only of the less developed side, for which I have come out here in order to try and make a very small contribution to one small, individual project.
As you can see, I’m quickly discovering the reality of Nepal. Every insight adds to my enjoyment of my experience. Even sitting choking on traffic fumes yesterday, I was smiling inside, marvelling at the Nepali way of life, as everyone was endlessly tooting at each other, trying their hardest to squeeze through the smallest gap, in order to be ahead of one more motorbike in the seemingly endless jam.
Aside from these slightly more philosophic insights, I am beginning to get a better idea of how I will be able to contribute to SHEWD during my stay. I won’t bore you with the details right now because I’ll probably do a more specific post about is sometime next week. This weekend, I’m meeting Sarah in Kathmandu to organise our 3 weeks of travelling which will start in mid April, and then we’re going to Nagarkot, from where the sunrises over the Himalaya are meant to be fabulous. (Although with the current smog, I’m not sure how far we’ll see. Oh well, that’s life … Just been listening to Frank Sinatra, can you tell? …)
Contrast number two is that between simple, agricultural based rural living and the heights of modernity. From my standpoint beside the temple in the mornings I look down across the beautiful valley below. My view is predominantly of terraced fields where the women usually work. Through these fields, the river glistens in the early morning sunshine, and I can see the women washing and bathing it the somewhat murky water. However, this rather idyllic view is interrupted by 5 massive chimneys which seem constantly to pump out black smoke, certainly contributing to the general smog which on many days, stops us seeing the mountains marking the boundary of the Kathmandu valley. These chimneys belong to factories, some of which produce pashminas for export (yes, don’t worry girls, you will all have beautiful pashminas …), others make bricks for the many houses which are currently under construction.
This second contrast struck me further yesterday when I went into Kathmandu with Krishna. As I sat on the back of his motorbike sitting in a ridiculous traffic jam (the type involving massive lurching trucks, little put-put scooters, a few jeeps, some brave cyclists and also several cows … yup only in Asia!), I took a look at the incredible country in which I’m currently living. There is certainly a lot of pollution (many locals wear face masks constantly) and definitely a problem with sewage which STINKS, and many faces who’s eyes tell a story of a difficult life. And yet suddenly, we turned a corner into the area called “New Road”, and we stepped right into the 21st Century as we know it in the UK … well, nearly …. The street was lined with shops brimming with the latest technological gadgets. I phones, the swishest laptops, top-end digital cameras, massive plasma Tvs, washing machines … you name it, you can get it in Kathmandu. And what’s more, all the shops seemed to be incredibly busy. I don’t know why it surprised me so much really. Maybe that I hadn’t really thought about that side of Nepal, instead thinking only of the less developed side, for which I have come out here in order to try and make a very small contribution to one small, individual project.
As you can see, I’m quickly discovering the reality of Nepal. Every insight adds to my enjoyment of my experience. Even sitting choking on traffic fumes yesterday, I was smiling inside, marvelling at the Nepali way of life, as everyone was endlessly tooting at each other, trying their hardest to squeeze through the smallest gap, in order to be ahead of one more motorbike in the seemingly endless jam.
Aside from these slightly more philosophic insights, I am beginning to get a better idea of how I will be able to contribute to SHEWD during my stay. I won’t bore you with the details right now because I’ll probably do a more specific post about is sometime next week. This weekend, I’m meeting Sarah in Kathmandu to organise our 3 weeks of travelling which will start in mid April, and then we’re going to Nagarkot, from where the sunrises over the Himalaya are meant to be fabulous. (Although with the current smog, I’m not sure how far we’ll see. Oh well, that’s life … Just been listening to Frank Sinatra, can you tell? …)
Saturday, 13 March 2010
Thaiba and family living
Family living in Nepal is great, if rather slow moving, with many slightly awkward moments as I adapt to Nepali customs and try to understand the special language that is Nepali English! ("Pardon" and "I don't understand" are two very important phrases for me at the moment!) I have been trying to get to grips with some Nepali but I'm not getting on so well thus far ...
Muna, the eldest daughter (22) has adopted me, and is always telling me to "come" whether it be to her room, or to sit and watch her prepare dinner. That in itself is an interesting experience! We eat rice and various different curries for both breakfast and dinner, and for lunch we have some type of dry flakes (they almost look like flaked almonds) with curried chickpeas. (I think this delight is called ghram?) To start with, the spices and garlic are all crushed together, using a small stone against a big stone which is on the floor. Everything is then mixed together in a pan and somehow comes out tasting delicious, if rather spicy! On the first day I was slightly worried about how my stomach would cope with the food, especially the pickles which aren't cooked and use normal water ... All seems to be ok so far though!
Meal times aren't quite what I was expecting ... (only based on what I've read in my trusty "Rough Guide") A LOT of preparation goes into the meals but they are finished within 5 minutes as everyone literally shovels their food into their mouths with their fingers. I have started to get the hang of this suprisingly difficult technique. The key seems to be to mix everything together on your plate, make a wee ball in your fingers and quickly push it into your mouth with your thumb! I've not yet mastered the art of doing this in a neat fashion, with every mouthful involving various bits falling from my mouth, and me looking a complete mess! At this, I am rewarded with a knowing smile from the deaf grandfather, and a look of amusement from the three girls! When each person is finished, they get up and leave to do other things (usually involving riding their new bike round the garden). So far, I have been the last at every meal although at home, I am always finished first!
Yesterday was my first day "in the office", although I ended up spending most of it in my room because the laptop run out of battery, and there was no electricity during the day. The family, however, has a generator so I was able to go back there to try and do some internet based work. Talking to Krishna, it seems that he is very keen for me to do a lot of networking based work. My main aim is to try and raise awarness of our work in the UK, to help establish a regular flow of volunteers, and to try and make some commerical connections with shops and businesses who might like to import some of the knitted products. Raising money is of course another concern. The current aim is to raise the equivalent of 5000 pounds sterling, in order to build a guesthouse which would allow tourists to visit the projects through an eco-tourism programme. By setting this up, SHEWD will be able to raise much needed funds for their other micro-credit and healthcare projects! (If anyone has any ideas about any of these, please please let me know, as any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!)
After a few days in the village, I have come back to Bhaktapur for the week-end to see Sarah and Nathalie. Its nice just to be able to relax totally, not constantly worrying about what I should do and what to say! I will return to Thaiba tomorrow evening, and I hope that I will go to see some of the villages on Monday. Let the real fun and hopefully amazing insights begin!
Until next time,
ElsieXXxx
Muna, the eldest daughter (22) has adopted me, and is always telling me to "come" whether it be to her room, or to sit and watch her prepare dinner. That in itself is an interesting experience! We eat rice and various different curries for both breakfast and dinner, and for lunch we have some type of dry flakes (they almost look like flaked almonds) with curried chickpeas. (I think this delight is called ghram?) To start with, the spices and garlic are all crushed together, using a small stone against a big stone which is on the floor. Everything is then mixed together in a pan and somehow comes out tasting delicious, if rather spicy! On the first day I was slightly worried about how my stomach would cope with the food, especially the pickles which aren't cooked and use normal water ... All seems to be ok so far though!
Meal times aren't quite what I was expecting ... (only based on what I've read in my trusty "Rough Guide") A LOT of preparation goes into the meals but they are finished within 5 minutes as everyone literally shovels their food into their mouths with their fingers. I have started to get the hang of this suprisingly difficult technique. The key seems to be to mix everything together on your plate, make a wee ball in your fingers and quickly push it into your mouth with your thumb! I've not yet mastered the art of doing this in a neat fashion, with every mouthful involving various bits falling from my mouth, and me looking a complete mess! At this, I am rewarded with a knowing smile from the deaf grandfather, and a look of amusement from the three girls! When each person is finished, they get up and leave to do other things (usually involving riding their new bike round the garden). So far, I have been the last at every meal although at home, I am always finished first!
Yesterday was my first day "in the office", although I ended up spending most of it in my room because the laptop run out of battery, and there was no electricity during the day. The family, however, has a generator so I was able to go back there to try and do some internet based work. Talking to Krishna, it seems that he is very keen for me to do a lot of networking based work. My main aim is to try and raise awarness of our work in the UK, to help establish a regular flow of volunteers, and to try and make some commerical connections with shops and businesses who might like to import some of the knitted products. Raising money is of course another concern. The current aim is to raise the equivalent of 5000 pounds sterling, in order to build a guesthouse which would allow tourists to visit the projects through an eco-tourism programme. By setting this up, SHEWD will be able to raise much needed funds for their other micro-credit and healthcare projects! (If anyone has any ideas about any of these, please please let me know, as any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!)
After a few days in the village, I have come back to Bhaktapur for the week-end to see Sarah and Nathalie. Its nice just to be able to relax totally, not constantly worrying about what I should do and what to say! I will return to Thaiba tomorrow evening, and I hope that I will go to see some of the villages on Monday. Let the real fun and hopefully amazing insights begin!
Until next time,
ElsieXXxx
Wednesday, 10 March 2010
Moving on....
I experienced my first public bus journey in Nepal yesterday, travelling to Patan (the southern part of kathmandu) to meet Krishna. Rather dusty and bumpy but very unthreatening - most people just totally ignored me and the seat next to me was left free until there were no others left! I quickly found out that with my current lack of Nepali, school/ college students are your safest bet for asking directions as they all speak at least a bit of English.
I arrived rather early in Patan so decided to visit Durbar Square where all the temples are. I hired a guide to get a bit of info. The funniest bit for me was a temple that had intricate carvings of all the Karmasutra positions which my guide explained to me were important in the 16th Century because they taught the public "how to make a family". Reminded me slightly of my dissertation and the use of pictures and statues to teach the lay people. Only difference was that in Christianity they were used to preach chastity and virginity!
Once I left the tourist trap of Durbar Square, there was not another foreigner in sight all day! Oddly, I found the non-tourist part of Patan far less threatening as everyone just ignored me, rather than trying to sell me lots of stuff in a hassling manner.
Krishna (director of SHEWD) met me on his motor bike, taking me back through the chaotic traffic to Thaiba, the village where I will be living and working. (look at google maps to see where it is.) The village was absolutely beautiful and the house rather grander than expected! Certainly a step up accomodation wise compared to what I lived in in Tanzania. I even have my own balcony!
I'm moving to the village today which I am very excited about. I shall keep you updated and try to upload some photos soon.
XXxx
I arrived rather early in Patan so decided to visit Durbar Square where all the temples are. I hired a guide to get a bit of info. The funniest bit for me was a temple that had intricate carvings of all the Karmasutra positions which my guide explained to me were important in the 16th Century because they taught the public "how to make a family". Reminded me slightly of my dissertation and the use of pictures and statues to teach the lay people. Only difference was that in Christianity they were used to preach chastity and virginity!
Once I left the tourist trap of Durbar Square, there was not another foreigner in sight all day! Oddly, I found the non-tourist part of Patan far less threatening as everyone just ignored me, rather than trying to sell me lots of stuff in a hassling manner.
Krishna (director of SHEWD) met me on his motor bike, taking me back through the chaotic traffic to Thaiba, the village where I will be living and working. (look at google maps to see where it is.) The village was absolutely beautiful and the house rather grander than expected! Certainly a step up accomodation wise compared to what I lived in in Tanzania. I even have my own balcony!
I'm moving to the village today which I am very excited about. I shall keep you updated and try to upload some photos soon.
XXxx
Monday, 8 March 2010
Background info
For those of you who aren't sure why I'm in Nepal and what I'll be doing, here is a little information.
I am out here for about 3 months and will be working with a Non-Governmental Organisation (NGO) called SHEWD. It is based around women's education and development, with their main project being a microfinance initiative teaching the women how to knit products which are sold to the Nepal tourist market and also to Western suppliers. I'm not sure what my day to day activities will involve but look at the rest of my blog to find out once I know! Look at the website for details: http://www.hipknit.com/index.html
I will be living in a village just southeast of Kathmandu and will be staying with a family. I have been told that they have 3 children between the ages of 18 and 24 so that should be lovely. Hopefully at least they will speak a bit of english because Nepali seems rather confusing and totally alien at the moment! I am going to take some language classes so hopefully it will make more sense soon!
While I'm out I will also do the normal touristy things of trekking and rafting etc.
Please feel free to comment on the blog to ask questions etc or email me on eblackshaw_320@hotmail.com or facebook me.
I am out here for about 3 months and will be working with a Non-Governmental Organisation (NGO) called SHEWD. It is based around women's education and development, with their main project being a microfinance initiative teaching the women how to knit products which are sold to the Nepal tourist market and also to Western suppliers. I'm not sure what my day to day activities will involve but look at the rest of my blog to find out once I know! Look at the website for details: http://www.hipknit.com/index.html
I will be living in a village just southeast of Kathmandu and will be staying with a family. I have been told that they have 3 children between the ages of 18 and 24 so that should be lovely. Hopefully at least they will speak a bit of english because Nepali seems rather confusing and totally alien at the moment! I am going to take some language classes so hopefully it will make more sense soon!
While I'm out I will also do the normal touristy things of trekking and rafting etc.
Please feel free to comment on the blog to ask questions etc or email me on eblackshaw_320@hotmail.com or facebook me.
Arrival in Nepal
Arriving in Heathrow with a slightly belwildered smile, I soon relaxed after meeting up with Sarah and Natalie (two medical students who are working out here too). First impressions of the JetAirways flight were very positive with suprisingly spacious seats. The elegant Indian air hostesses put EasyJet to shame in their effortless smiles as they moved down the aisles. Excited chatter soon stopped on my part as I fell straight to sleep, only awoken by the strong turbulence and ensuing stench of multiple vomitting episodes my the man in front of me. Not pleasant.
Delhi airport was much as expected (ie fairly chaotic in a brilliant way). After feeling suitably felt-up after a full on body search in a "private" cubicle (thankfully by a woman), we were allowed to go straight through security with no hint of interest in what we might be carrying in our bags! (Even though everyone else had things scanned, they obviously thought we didn't look threatening enough to warrant a bag search ...)
Coming into Kathmandu airport was magnificent as we swoopped worryingly close to the mountains, allowing us a close view of the stepped farms on the steep hill sides. Once through the visa point etc, I was very thankful that we had organised a pick-up from the guesthouse because after 15 hours travelling, I would have struggled to deal with the swarm of men offering "cheap taxis".
As always, the initial journey from the airport is a bit of a culture shock as you are plunged right into the middle of dusty roads with no organisation to them. Lorries hooting and swerving into the seemingly oncoming traffic, and then a scooter rattling in between you and that swerving lorry. Interesting. Thankfully they all seem to know what they are doing and abide by some unwritten rules of the road.
I am staying in Bhaktapur in a guesthouse with Sarah and Natalie for the first few nights so as to not be totally alone and allow myself to acclimatise for a while. Pagoda guesthouse is brilliantly placed opposite an intricatly carved temple with very impressive elephant and tiger carvings protecting the steps to its entrance. It has a rooftop restuarant where we enjoyed our first Nepali curry at 7pm after which we went straight to sleep to recover from the lack of sleep on the flight.
Waking up this morning with a somewhat painful back, I realised that a wood-hard bed is not always great for the back as I was always told! Think my thermarest might make an appearance tonight ... Another important bit of information I have gathered is that they only have electricity for 11 hours per 24 hours at the moment. It works on a pre-planned timetable so today we have electricity before 8am, between 2pm and 4pm, and after 9pm! Glad I brought my headtorch!!
Today I have visited the hospital where the other two will be working and then wandered around town for a while. Being a single white female at this point, I was inevitably followed by many young men offering to be my guide and to show me their painting schools.
They were all very friendly and interesting to talk to with lots of local information. I will probably take one of them up on their offer sometime later in the week.
I have also managed to contact Krishna, the director of the project I will be working with. I am meeting him in Kathmandu tomorrow to chat, visit the village, and to meet the family I will be staying with. All sounds very promising!
I will keep you all posted as to how I get on and I will try to upload some photos at some point.
Keep in touch!
ElsieXXxx
Delhi airport was much as expected (ie fairly chaotic in a brilliant way). After feeling suitably felt-up after a full on body search in a "private" cubicle (thankfully by a woman), we were allowed to go straight through security with no hint of interest in what we might be carrying in our bags! (Even though everyone else had things scanned, they obviously thought we didn't look threatening enough to warrant a bag search ...)
Coming into Kathmandu airport was magnificent as we swoopped worryingly close to the mountains, allowing us a close view of the stepped farms on the steep hill sides. Once through the visa point etc, I was very thankful that we had organised a pick-up from the guesthouse because after 15 hours travelling, I would have struggled to deal with the swarm of men offering "cheap taxis".
As always, the initial journey from the airport is a bit of a culture shock as you are plunged right into the middle of dusty roads with no organisation to them. Lorries hooting and swerving into the seemingly oncoming traffic, and then a scooter rattling in between you and that swerving lorry. Interesting. Thankfully they all seem to know what they are doing and abide by some unwritten rules of the road.
I am staying in Bhaktapur in a guesthouse with Sarah and Natalie for the first few nights so as to not be totally alone and allow myself to acclimatise for a while. Pagoda guesthouse is brilliantly placed opposite an intricatly carved temple with very impressive elephant and tiger carvings protecting the steps to its entrance. It has a rooftop restuarant where we enjoyed our first Nepali curry at 7pm after which we went straight to sleep to recover from the lack of sleep on the flight.
Waking up this morning with a somewhat painful back, I realised that a wood-hard bed is not always great for the back as I was always told! Think my thermarest might make an appearance tonight ... Another important bit of information I have gathered is that they only have electricity for 11 hours per 24 hours at the moment. It works on a pre-planned timetable so today we have electricity before 8am, between 2pm and 4pm, and after 9pm! Glad I brought my headtorch!!
Today I have visited the hospital where the other two will be working and then wandered around town for a while. Being a single white female at this point, I was inevitably followed by many young men offering to be my guide and to show me their painting schools.
They were all very friendly and interesting to talk to with lots of local information. I will probably take one of them up on their offer sometime later in the week.
I have also managed to contact Krishna, the director of the project I will be working with. I am meeting him in Kathmandu tomorrow to chat, visit the village, and to meet the family I will be staying with. All sounds very promising!
I will keep you all posted as to how I get on and I will try to upload some photos at some point.
Keep in touch!
ElsieXXxx
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